![]() Please if I'm wrong in any points let me know.6b&s is heaps for your aux battery. Īnd as you know our alternator capacity is 120Amp. Regarding the 6 B&S WIRING I checked the AWG gauge chart ( Not sure if it's very accurate ), the 6 B&S is rated for 37Amps power transmission and 101 for chassis wiring. I think this one is more reliable, but I choose the stinger one because I want to connect to rocker switch panel that I already have. * If used two thinner wires but the both are equal to 2 AWG, is it ok ?ĥ- Any specific point to open the extra hole ? And what relay size you suggest ?Ģ- Regarding the AWG is it like bible we to strict to it, or it's not very accurate ? or there's a better table for guidance ? I know our alternator capacity is 120A, t o be honest i don't how much Amps is really flow to the main battery or to the second battery form the alternator ,If you help me with that point I really appreciated. I choose it because most relay comes in capacities of 100A, 200A. and if you don't mine I have couple of notes and questions pleaseġ- Regarding the 200A relay. I really wanna thank you for all the info above. The direct to the storage tub would be the neatest but requires a new hole into the car. You can then come in via an extra hole with a grommet to the third row seat storage or use on of the predrill holes near the rear taillights to get into the quarter panel and across the floor. Make sure you put it in a protective sheath so that the insulation is kept in good condition. If you place them at the same level as the fuel line or higher then you will be in the right areas to keep the cable protected. Most will go under the car but you need to tuck the cable up so if you get beached or slide across rock or terrain the cables do get damaged ( again a great reason to have a fuse. First is through the car second is under the car. 100A fuse should be enough.ĥ- any idea how to get the cable from engine bay to inside cargo room ? You have two options from the engine bay to the rear area. A fuse protects the car and the electronics on board without the fuse if there is a fault you have a high possibility of burning the car to the ground. ![]() Most issues with 12V systems come from bad grounding points or connections.Ĥ- is it necessary to add a fuse to that circuit? Yes, if you dont run a fuse then you are asking for trouble. the voltage drop across the cable will be negligible and keep the battery int he rear at a good condition if the charging is remembered to be turned on.ģ- for chassis wiring for the second battery, do i have to connected to the main battery negative post or i can connect it to car body? You do not NEED to run to the negitive terminal but if you are using the body as your chassis ground you will need to make sure that the ground point you select is clean and has a good connection. I would also make sure it is powered by switched voltage meaning when the car is off regardless of the manual switch position the battery will be isolated and the relay off.Ģ- what cable size and length is suitable for that connection? I would be using AWG 2 which is a 6.5mm cable (copper only not the insulation) and will be rated at 120A at a minimum. Keep in the back of your mind though that if you forget to turn the relay on then the second battery will not be charging. As you are switching the relay manually there will not be any complication with the wiring. ![]() I beleive it is overkill as if you are pushing 200A to the secondary battery something is seriously wrong. However, it is just a big high current relay. Here are some guidance with some of your questions.answered in blueġ- does stinger isolator is the good choice ? Not sure on this as I have not used it personally. ![]()
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